Maison Infrared/Stays/Adrère Amellal

Western Desert, Egypt

Adrère Amellal

The White Mountain

29°12′N  25°31′E
Siwa Oasis
Thirty eight rooms

Adrère Amellal below the White Mountain, Siwa Oasis, Egypt, lit by torch after sunset
After sunset, the paths are lit by handDaniele Pellegrini

This place did not go off the grid.
The grid never came.

No one cut a wire here to make a point about modern life. There was never a wire. Sixty million year old rock, two natural springs, and thirty eight rooms cut by hand out of the ground they stand on.

I

The White Mountain

Adrère Amellal was built in 2000 at the foot of rock sixty million years old, by Siwan hands, using the only method this part of the desert has ever used. Karshef: rock salt, clay, stone and palm, cut and shaped without machinery.

Nothing was imported to make it look like it belongs. The walls came out of the ground they stand on, and they will go back into it.

The number of rooms is set by what the natural springs can carry. Not by demand, not by a projection, not by a decision anyone made in a room. Thirty eight, and that is the ceiling.

Adrère Amellal, Siwa Oasis, Egypt
Adrère Amellal, Siwa Oasis
II

No line to the grid

There is no electricity. No wifi. No socket, no switch, no screen anywhere in the building.

At dusk someone walks the paths with a torch and lights what needs lighting. Beeswax candles go into the rooms. After that, sight belongs to fire, moonlight, and whatever the stars happen to be doing.

Without a screen to default to, the eyes begin registering what they had stopped noticing. Nothing was added here. Nothing is competing for attention any more.

Adrère Amellal, Siwa Oasis, Egypt
Siwa Oasis · Nourhan Mamdouh
Adrère Amellal, Siwa Oasis, Egypt
Karim Mostafa Ali

The purpose of Adrère Amellal is to offer a journey into the past, where man lives in harmony with nature in a unique and hospitable environment.

Sustainability lies at the core of Adrère's existence. Its operation relies on two natural springs, while the local community delivers practically most, if not all, of its hospitality services, without dependence on electricity, in a candle-lit environment.

Adrère is integrated in the natural environment of Siwa. It makes nature the real host, and engages the local community in service provision.

Dr. Mounir Neamatalla  ·  Founder, Adrère Amellal

III

The garden and the table

Behind the lodge, natural springs irrigate a garden that has fed the kitchen since the place was built. What arrives at the table was in the ground that morning. Herbs picked by hand. Vegetables and salads with no distance at all between where they grew and where they are eaten.

Traditional dishes cook slowly in honey glazed clay pots, the kind used in this region for longer than anyone has been counting. There is no menu written to impress anybody. Just what was ready, prepared the way it has always been prepared here.

Natural spring fed pool in the shade of palms at Adrère Amellal

The spring pool · Henrico Constantini

IV

Water, salt, sand

A basin fed by the lodge's own springs, cool and clear, set into the rock. Beyond it, Siwa's salt lake, still enough to hold the whole sky on its surface. Further out, the Great Sand Sea opens into dunes with no fixed edge.

A walk through the old fortress of Shali puts you inside a settlement that was left to the weather generations ago and never rebuilt.

Salt, mud and massage treatments draw on what the land already provides. None of it is a programme. It is closer to what the desert does to a body that stays in it long enough to stop resisting the heat, the silence, and the slowness.

The salt lake at Siwa with the Great Sand Sea beyond
The salt lake, and the Great Sand Sea beyond itDaniele Pellegrini
V

The room

Every room is different, because every room was cut by hand. Rock salt walls that hold the cool right through the afternoon. Palm wood ceilings. Floors of hand cut stone. Furniture shaped by artisans who learned the craft here, not ordered from a catalogue.

No two are alike, because no two were built alike.

Room interior at Adrère Amellal with rock salt walls and a palm wood ceiling

Rock salt, palm wood, hand cut stone · Nancy Kingham

Rooms
Thirty eight
Composition
5 single · 17 double · 10 desert · 6 suite
Built
2000, karshef
Electricity
None
Wifi and signal
None
Light after dark
Beeswax, torch, moon
Water
Two natural springs
From Siwa town
Sixteen kilometres

Thirty eight rooms is the whole of it, and the springs decide that number, not us.

Ask about dates

Getting there

Siwa is not convenient, and that is most of the point. The oasis sits deep in Egypt's Western Desert near the Libyan border, and the lodge is a further sixteen kilometres out from the village. Getting here takes a full day and some intent. Very few people make the trip, which is exactly why it still feels the way it does.

Camp in the dunes near Adrère Amellal in the last light of the evening

On the second night, you stop listening for anything.

The grid still has not reached Siwa. Thirty eight rooms, sixteen kilometres past the village, for as long as that holds.

Plan your stay

Send us a note, and we'll pass it directly to Adrère Amellal.